Showing posts with label Multimeter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Multimeter. Show all posts

Saturday, October 12, 2013

WIRELESS 555 timer mouse modification

It's Columbus Day weekend and I had an urge to do this project ever since I got back from Hong Kong, so I decided to do it this weekend.

You might be familiar with this "mod" on gaming communities, whether it be for Xbox games or for computer games. Basically you add a 555 timer sends an oscillated signal to a button to simulate extremely fast clicking.

This is my old mouse

I did this to my old mouse and I used it a lot for my games.

I found an awesome wireless mouse in Hong Kong that only costed $5, and I loved using it. It was more sensitive, and, wireless! My desk was beginning to get cluttered so I was more interested into going wireless.
The bad thing is, it doesn't have this rapid-fire button on it.

The 555 timer runs at 5v. If I tried to put that circuit into a mouse running at 1.5v, I would have a bad time.
I dug the internet for solutions to this problem, and found nothing. I have yet to find a web page that has instructions on how to build a rapid fire circuit for a wireless mouse, or even proof that it has been done.
The only thing I found was this. Sad.

Apparently, TI sells and low voltage variation of the 555 timer, the LMC555. It's CMOS, so it runs with less power.
TI claims that it has this swap-out property, so I can just replace a normal LM555 with a LMC555 and everything will still work. I had to see this for myself.

So I ordered a few and built the circuit as I always would. Here is a schematic

I will explain the transistor later.


So the first step is to take apart the mouse.
Good job!

Now, build the circuit on a breadboard so that you are sure everything works.




Test it


You should get this really quick square wave.

Now you are going to have to do a little testing (with a multimeter)on the mouse now.
Most wired mice have a button that when you click it, it shorts HIGH to the processor. When the processor picks up the HIGH, it takes it as a click.
This wireless mouse does something else. When the processor senses that a pin is LOW, it considers it a click.
From the two button pins, find the pin to the processor (2-3v) and the pin that is LOW (0v).


Test each lead of the button.
To find out whether your mouse is activated by HIGH or LOW, click the button and see if both pins are HIGH or LOW.
If both pins end up HIGH (3v), you don't need a transistor.
If both pins end up LOW, you need a transistor.
When the transistor receives a signal from the base, current will flow from collector to emitter. Emitter will be connected to ground, and the collector will be connected to the processor pin (2-3v).

Try using a wire to short your processor pin to GND. See if that renders as a click.

So now that you cleared that up, solder the circuit together! Remember to make it AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE. Space is an issue. You have a battery, a button, and your 555 circuit all crammed into the already tight space in the wireless mouse.

bend the leads



Solder tightly



After that, drill your hole for you mouse. You must find a button that fits your mouse.

Just adding the transistor


Find the right drill bit


Seems to fit


It fits!

So now that is done,
Connect the 555 timer to Vcc and GND
Connect the emitter of the NPN transistor to ground
Connect the collector of the NPN transistor to the processor pin (or the button pin that has 3 volts)
Connect one end of the button the the base of the transistor
Connect the other end of the button to the pin 3 of the 555 timer.

Some pictures of that:


Wrap it in electrical tape for insulation


fits nicely


And you are set!

Here is a video of it working. Note that this mod is pretty glitchy, and sometime it will not respond, but it works most of the time.



Saturday, August 31, 2013

Let's get familiar with some tools

Before all of these posts...

Let's get familiar of all the tools I will be referencing and using. This is going to be a quick run through, so if you have any questions of where to purchase, how to use, etc about the tools, please leave it in the comments below.

Taken for granted:

I hope you all know what a breadboard is, what solder is, what a perfboard is, what a PCB is, etc.
If you have any questions about electronics, please feel free to ask questions!
I will not mention every single tool I use, as I am skimming through it.

Tools

Soldering iron: ~$10
Less basic and less useful: solder pot. ~$15
I barely ever use the solder pot. In fact it isn't even that practical.
The only thing I use it for is to desolder SMD parts, however I could use a hot plate instead of it. It makes a lot of harmful fumes, and the solder oxidizes quickly in such a hot pot. 





Etchant ~$3
I bought etchant from Hong Kong, cheap. 
Dremel ~$expensive (my dad's)
Drill press base ~ $founditinthetrash
Hacksaw ~$I'mnotsure
Goggles ~$finditinthetrash
gloves ~$inthetrash
Vise~$mydads

Here is a picture of the table which I work at. It is incredibly sloppy at the moment. However, you will see that I have wire strippers, wire cutters, pliers, helping hand, etc.

Helping Hands ~$20 (from Hobby Shop. If from Radio Shack, it probably costs a ridiculous price)


Organized box of supplies:
This year I went to Hong Kong and bought parts like no tomorrow. Why?
Two seven segment displays in HK cost $8... HKD, which is one US dollar
That same product probably costs $4 in USD... At Radio Shack.
I prefer to order parts from ebay.com. The shipping takes long, but if you do not need the part urgently, you will be satisfied.



Brilliant.


Multimeter: useful, and relatively cheap in HK. Fluke multimeters are a recommended brand... because they don't fluke (haha)

Just a handy notepad to write down reference circuits or pinouts that you will need to use a lot.


A laptop comes in handy to program and surf the web for help!



A USB to Serial converter will be handy. This one is from ebay, again, pretty cheap ~$10
I tried to make my own, but ended up failing.


Home-made tools

The tools above can be bought. The tools I will soon mention can be made at home, for a much cheaper price.

Inside this box is magic. Let's open it.

Test LEDs. Having a built in resistor comes in handy. To test if a connection is HIGH (5v) or LOW (0v), just connect this resistor like a pair of chopsticks. It's a good tool, simple to make.



Above is an "oscilloscope", more like a graphed out voltmeter that I found here: http://yveslebrac.blogspot.com/2008/10/cheapest-dual-trace-scope-in-galaxy.html
It's functional, but a better option would have just been
analogRead(); on Arduino, then graph it out on processing.


USBTiny ISP. From Adafruit, this tool is somewhat expensive: http://learn.adafruit.com/usbtinyisp
From ebay, it is a little less expensive: ebay.com
From home, it's free.


This brilliant piece of work can be found at this guy's blog: http://tequals0.wordpress.com/2011/09/26/attiny45-based-usbtinyisp-programmer/

If you check the comments you might be able to find the PCB I designed. 

And with all those ISPs, how do we program with them?


Voila! Most people put their chip on a breadboard every time they need to program it...
That can be a bit annoying, so I made this target board. It supports 
  • ATtiny25,45,85
  • ATtiny24,44,84
  • ATtiny1313,2313,
  • ATmega 328,128, similar chips
Basically you plug in the ISP cable, the chip, and if you need, there is a socket for a crystal oscillator, and you can program it! All it is is a connection between the ISP header and the MOSI, MISO, SCK, Vcc, GND, and RST pins of each chip socket, so of course, you can only program one chip at a time.

5v power supply: four sockets from the USB so it's easy to prototype



An audio jack with wires sticking out of it. That way I can just plug the wires into a breadboard to test out an audio circuit.


This board is to be used with the Arduino as ISP system. you can find it here:
My board supports only ATtiny25,45,85 and 24,44,84, so I do not use it often.






Last but not least, above are pictures of a debricker I found online. 
The best thing, It WORKS and it's small.
 I used an A23 battery cell for size. It's impressive such a small battery is 12v!
From the hv_serial_prog program on that website, I edited a bit so I can reset the fuses on different chips. All you have to do is change the values on the #define at the beginning.

So, feel free to make your own! I encourage you to make these tools so that your life will be easier.